Nov 19 (The Telegraph) – The warning shriek which rang out from a group of monkeys atop a tree caused our khaki-clad guide, Avanki, to sit bolt upright.
“Leopard,” he whispered.
Breathless, we waited – and then all of a sudden, there they were. High in an Indian ironwood tree sat a mother leopard and her cub, a young male, the body of a young deer held tightly in his jaw. I half expected to hear David Attenborough’s dulcet tones narrating the scene in my ear.
However, despite appearances, I was not in the vast plains of Tanzania’s Serengeti, nor in the rolling savanna grasslands of Kenya’s Masai Mara, nor the dusty, tiger-flecked roads of India’s Ranthambore. Rather, I was on the little Asian island of Sri Lanka.
This teardrop-shaped isle off India’s southern tip is largely known for its postcard-perfect beaches and misty tea plantations – but what many travellers don’t realise is that it is also a bona fide safari destination. With some of the highest rates of biological endemism on earth, the country is awash with protected national parks and reserves, and boasts a wildlife mix as rich as any you could wish for – including one of the highest leopard densities in the world. Safaris are also, on the whole, far cheaper in Sri Lanka than in the likes of Kenya and Tanzania, and tend to be quieter and less commercially developed than their African and Indian counterparts.
Had tourists not been kept at bay by a difficult two decades (which have included a civil war, which ended in 2009, 2004’s tsunami, and 2019’s terror attack), it’s certain that Sri Lanka’s safari credentials would already be making headlines. As things stand, however, it has remained largely overlooked. Now, however, the country is finally back on the travel map – with overseas visitor numbers surging 62 per cent this year – and its burgeoning ethical safari industry is not only helping Sri Lanka’s economy grow, but also safeguarding its future.
This in mind, you’ll need to get your skates on if you plan to see its wildlife before the rest of the world does too. Here’s how to build your perfect Sri Lankan safari holiday – and where to stay along the way.
For an old-school safari: Yala National Park
Just over four hours drive from Colombo lies the most popular of Sri Lanka’s safari destinations: Yala National Park. Made up of flat plains, monsoon forest, beaches and wetlands, the park is home to an impressive elephant population, as well as sloth bears, and excursions frequently include, giant, open-mouthed crocodiles sunbathing on waterhole banks, and countless herds of deer. It’s the leopards which are the main draw here, however, as Yala is believed to be home to the largest wild leopard concentration in the world.
Stay
Positioned on the park’s border and overlooking the Indian Ocean, Yala Wild Coast Tented Lodge is made up of 36 luxe canvas cocoons. Rates are inclusive of daily game drives led by a resident team of naturalists and, just like an African safari, jeeps depart the lodge at both sunrise and in the afternoon for a three-hour safari. Tents from £826 per night, including all meals, drinks and game drives.
Alternatively, neighbouring Uga Chena Huts has 18 luxury thatch-roofed cabins (each with private deck and pool) and is flanked by a lake system on one side (home to ibises, painted storks and crocodiles) and a beach on the other, where sea turtles come to lay eggs by moonlight and elephants wander down from the forest to soak in the surf. Luxury pool cabins from £970, all-inclusive.
For wild cats and wilderness: Wilpattu & Minneriya National Parks
On the northwestern coast of Sri Lanka sits Wilpattu National Park, where more than 100 natural lakes (or “willus”) sustain life year-round. Despite being one of the oldest and largest parks in the country, it’s nevertheless one of the least visited – making it one of the best locations to see shy leopards. Just 50 miles to the east, Minneriya National Park is famous for “the Gathering” – one of the largest elephant congregations on earth – which takes place every September and October.
Stay
Set almost exactly half way between the two parks is Uga Ulagalla resort, which offers daily naturalist-led excursions to both. Nestled amidst wildlife-rich, sprawling, lush greenery and with a century-old mansion at its centre, this 25-villa hotel offers both indulgence and local cultural immersion. All rooms come with a private plunge pool or in-room Jacuzzi, in addition to a large communal pool.
Pool villas from £377 per night, including breakfast.
For elephant encounters: Udawalawe National Park
If elephants rank highly on your safari wish list (who doesn’t want to see elephants?) then Udawalawe National Park is the place for you. Less crowded than Yala, Udawalawe is home to roughly 600 elephants (it is considered to be the best place in all of Asia to observe them in the wild), as well as monkeys, deer, crocodiles, and buffalo. Udawalawe is the third most-visited park in Sri Lanka, and a jeep safari is the only way guests are allowed to visit. You can mitigate being caught up in the crowds by arranging an excursion ahead of time.
Stay
Anantara Peace Haven Tangalle enjoys a position between two national parks, making it a convenient jumping off point for Udawalawe. Set on the site of an old coconut plantation, the hotel spreads its accommodation across 120 suites and 32 private pool villas. There’s plenty of opportunity for animal-spotting here too – the manicured grounds are home to a large population of monkeys, peacocks and monitor lizards.
Anantara Peace Haven Tangalle Resort has rooms from £264 per night, including breakfast.
